Harvey Steiman of the Wine Spectator recently published:
Beautifully balanced wines continue to roll in from Oregon's 2005 vintage. The Pinot Noirs have presence and pure flavors, with few examples of high-alcohol heat.
Penner-Ash and Shea Vineyard are just over the hill from one another, separated only by a low ridge and a line of trees at the northern border of the newly minted Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The hill actually sits across a small vale from Beaux Frères' home vineyard. That makes it fashionable real estate in wine terms.
The Shea bottling is Penner-Ash's best Pinot Noir in 2005, with flavors reminiscent of mineral and carpaccio adding interest to the currant and blackberry fruit. Shea Pinot Noir East Hill 2005, from a part of that vineyard close to the aforementioned ridge, shows cherry and tar flavors on a graceful frame.
There are two debuts in this bunch, including Penner-Ash's first wine from Dussin Vineyard, the one planted next to the winery, which shows a strong personality for a vineyard planted only in 2003.
PENNER-ASH Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard 2005 94
Ripe and distinctive in character, with a remarkably open texture that lets the currant, blackberry, carpaccio and mineral flavors roll out effortlessly. Impressive for its grace and harmony. Drink now through 2015. 200 cases made. —H.S.
PENNER-ASH Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2005 92
Supple and open in texture, this offers a gentle mouthful of ripe plum and cherry flavors, picking up a mineral note as the finish engagingly lingers. Drink now through 2015. 1,900 cases made. —H.S.
PENNER-ASH Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Dussin Vineyard 2005 92
Generous and distinctive, weaving dusky spice and mineral notes into the ripe currant and berry flavors, which mingle effortlessly as the finish rolls on and on. Has a strong personality but doesn't push over the top. Drink now through 2015. 180 cases made. —H.S.
PENNER-ASH Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Seven Springs Vineyard 2005 91
Polished and refined, with velvety tannins around a supple core of beautifully knit raspberry and pomegranate flavors, lingering on the generous finish. Best from 2008 through 2015. 250 cases made. —H.S.